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Calvados Coeur de Lion Hors D'Age
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Coeur De Lion 25 year Calvados 750ml
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Calvados Coeur De Lion Vintage Pays D'auge 1967 France 750ml
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Marquis De Sauval XO Armagnac 750ml
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Chateau De Laubade Armagnac 1978 750ml
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Armagnac Laubade 1967 750ml
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Jean Fillioux Grande Champagne Cognac Vintage 1983 750ml
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Grappa Prime Uve Arance 750ml
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Clear Creek Kirschwasser Eau De Vie Oregon 375ml Half Bottle
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Laphroaig 10 Year Islay Single Malt Scotch 750ml
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Glenlivet 18 year Highland Scotch 750ml
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Effen Vodka Holland 750ml
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Calvados Coeur de Lion Hors D'Age
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Coeur De Lion 25 year Calvados 750ml
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Calvados Coeur De Lion Vintage Pays D'auge 1967 France 750ml
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Marquis De Sauval XO Armagnac 750ml
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Chateau De Laubade Armagnac 1978 750ml
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Armagnac Laubade 1967 750ml
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Jean Fillioux Grande Champagne Cognac Vintage 1983 750ml
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Grappa Prime Uve Arance 750ml
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Clear Creek Kirschwasser Eau De Vie Oregon 375ml Half Bottle
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Laphroaig 10 Year Islay Single Malt Scotch 750ml
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Glenlivet 18 year Highland Scotch 750ml
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Effen Vodka Holland 750ml
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Hendrick's Gin Scotland 750ml
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The Absinthe Ritual
All true absinthes are bitter to some degree (due to the presence of absinthin, extracted from the wormwood) and are therefore
usually served with the addition of sugar. This not only counters the bitterness, but in well made absinthes seems also to subtly
improve the herbal flavour-profile of the drink.
The classic French absinthe ritual involves placing a sugar cube on a flat perforated spoon, which rests on the rim of the glass
containing a measure or “dose” of absinthe. Iced water is then very slowly dripped on to the sugar cube, which gradually dissolves
and drips, along with the water, into the absinthe, causing the green liquor to louche (“loosh”) into an opaque opalescent white as the
essential oils precipitate out of the alcoholic solution. Usually three to four parts water are added to one part of 68% absinthe.
Historically, true absintheurs used to take great care in adding the water, letting it fall drop by single drop onto the sugar cube, and
then watching each individual drip cut a milky swathe through the peridot-green absinthe below. Seeing the drink gradually change
colour was part of its ritualistic attraction.
Notes on technique
The “ritual” is important – it’s part of the fascination of absinthe. No other drink is traditionally consumed with such a carefully
calibrated kind of ceremony. It’s part of what lends absinthe its drug-like allure (for instance, one talks about the dose of absinthe in
the glass, a term you’d never use with whisky or brandy). From all historical evidence, it seems that absinthe was almost always
drunk like this – even the poorest working man, in the roughest bar or café, would prepare his absinthe slowly and carefully. It was
seldom drunk neat (except by the kind of desperate end-stage alcoholics who might also be drinking ether or cologne); the water was
always added slowly not just sloshed in; ice was never added to the glass.
The water added to the absinthe dose must always be iced, as cold as possible. Part of the advantage of using an absinthe fountain
was that you could add ice cubes to the water to keep it cold, and some carafes had a chamber for ice as well. There’s a famous
poem by the French author and absintheur Raoul Ponchon, where he says if you add tepid water, you might as well be drinking ….
pissat d’âne / Ou du bouillon pointu – donkey piss or an enema broth. Paradoxically though, ice wasn't added to the glass itself – the
idea was to start with the drink as cool as possible, but let it slowly warm to room temperature as you drank it. Aside from historical
considerations, it tastes better this way.
It’s essential to add the water as slowly as possible – drop by drop - particular at first, as the louche starts to develop. There are two
reasons for this: it enables you to admire the gradual change of color, and it allows the aroma to develop slowly for maximum
complexity and interest. (Technically: different essential oils precipitate out of the solution - and thus release their aromas - at
different dilution percentages. By pouring very slowly you effectively get to appreciate them all individually, whereas if you just throw
the water in everything gets released at once).
Holding the carafe in a relaxed and stylish way high above the glass, and letting the water slowly drip out drop for drop is harder than
you’d think, and was a much admired skill at the time. Busy cafés had “absinthe professors” – professional absintheurs – who for a
small sum would instruct a patron in the art, or assist him themselves. A slightly easier but also historically accurate method you
might prefer is as follows:
Place a sugar cube on the spoon.
Drip a few drops of water on to the sugar cube, just enough to saturate it thoroughly.
Then do nothing, just watch the sugar cube for a few minutes. It will spontaneously slowly start to collapse and drip into the glass,
eventually leaving only a few drops of sugared water on the spoon.
Then add the rest of the water in a thin stream.
Sugar isn’t essential – it’s entirely a matter of taste. In their brochures, Pernod Fils suggested their absinthe could be drunk with or
without sugar. There is – or certainly was - an ingrained French predilection for sweet anise flavored drinks, cultivated from childhood
with syrups and cordials. Most Belle Epoque absintheurs added at least one, sometimes two or even three sugar cubes, and some
added gum syrup as well. Today we’re likely to find this far too sweet. I’d suggest using half a sugar cube to start with, and then
adjusting upwards or downwards according to preference.
The correct dose of absinthe is about 30ml – just over an ounce. Add three parts water to one part absinthe and then taste. For
casual drinking ( as opposed to tasting a rare bottle) you might prefer to add a little more water, bringing the ratio up to 4:1 or even to
5:1.
Overall, it’s worth taking the trouble to prepare an absinthe in the traditional way like this. The slowness and care required help put
one in the right frame of mind to appreciate the subtleties of the drink, and it undoubtedly tastes better this way as well.
Origins
There is some debate amongst absinthe historians as to when exactly the traditional absinthe ritual originated. Certainly, there is no
evidence that it was ever normal to drink absinthe neat, without water. Absinthe was drunk with the addition of both water and sugar
from at least the 1850's, and probably earlier. Absinthe was by no means unique in this respect - 19th century drinkers had a far
sweeter tooth when it came to alcohol than we have today, and other drinks and cordials were also regularly sweetened with sugar.
They were usually served with a long cordial spoon or a kind of swizzle stick, to help dissolve the sugar.
The use of a perforated spoon specifically for absinthe was a later development, which appears to have originated in the 1870's and
only became widespread in the 1880's and 1890's. From the 1890's onwards, it seems, on the evidence of existing engravings and
cartoons, almost all absinthes in bars and cafés were served with a perforated spoon.
Variations
A popular alternative to using crystalized sugar (une absinthe au sucre) was to add either gum syrup (une absinthe gommée) or
sweet liqueur d'anis (une absinthe anisée). Neither of these versions of course required a perforated spoon.
It was perfectly acceptable to drink an absinthe without sugar (une absinthe pure), but, based on all the historical evidence this
certainly wasn't the norm, and there is no publicity material extant from any manufacturer that suggests this was the primary method -
it's always referred to, if at all, as an alternative to the sugared version.
Occasionally absinthe was drunk diluted with other lower strength alcohol - white wine (une absinthe de minuit), or cognac (Toulouse
Lautrec's speciality, un tremblement de terre). But these were very unusual methods, which always aroused special comment,
usually disapproving.
Drinking neat absinthe (ie without water), certainly wasn't usual at any stage, and was never socially acceptable. Where it is referred
to, it is always in the context of alcoholism and degradation - in the same way, for instance, as we might refer to someone drinking a
neat triple gin today (the equivalent in alcohol content).
A modern travesty
Today, modern absinthes are often marketed in conjunction with the so-called Bohemian absinthe ritual. This is not a traditional
method, but a modern innovation inspired by the success of flaming sambuca and such like. A shot of absinthe is poured into a
glass, and a teaspoonful of sugar is dipped into it. The alcohol soaked sugar is set alight and allowed to burn until it bubbles and
caramelises. The spoon of melted sugar is then plunged into the absinthe and stirred in, which usually sets the absinthe itself alight.
Ice water is then poured in, dousing the flames. This method, has become increasingly popular, especially since it was shown in the
film “Moulin Rouge”, but is a historical travesty, and would have horrified any Belle Epoque absintheur.
Guide to CalvadosWhen one thinks of Normandy one thinks of a land of orchards planted with apple trees. The apple symbolises the agricultural tradition of Normandy and is used within the flag of the general council of Calvados.  Throughout history the apple has been a pillar in the economic and cultural welfare of Normandy. Cider and calvados have traditionally been produced on the farm in Normandy since the Middle-Ages. Many ancient cider presses with circular millstones made of granite can still be seen throughout the Normandy countryside. Normandy cider is very different to the cider produced in the United Kingdom and when that cider is distilled calvados is born. The first official written references to calvados distilling date back to the 16th century long before it took the name of calvados. While brandy can made anywhere in the world the apple brandy calvados can only be produced in this special region of France. Many factors help set it apart from other brandy and it all starts with the soil, climate and agricultural heritage, of the people of Normandy.  Calvados received “Appellation d’Origine” status in 1942 and today three different appellations exist for calvados and one for Pommeau. Each appellation has unique and distinguishing characteristics, which concern the geographical area and the distillation process. The geographical production areas are strictly defined and all operations that result in the production of calvados and Pommeau are carried out within these zones. The “Appellation Controlee System” is a set of rules designed to guarantee and maintain the characteristics and quality of the product and its century old traditions. AOC Calvados - In short apples from the Calvados region made a single, continuous distillation process using a column still.  The OrchardIt all starts with the right apple not just any apple and certainly not eating apples. Instead small fruits with great aromatic intensity are used. Generally sweet varieties of pear are chosen. For the making of calvados, hundreds of varieties of apple can be used. Traditional producers grow 20 to 40 varieties. The various varieties ensure the production of a juice containing the necessary sugar, tannins and acidity. Traditionally the harvest was carried out by shaking the branches of high stem trees. The apples would fall onto tarpaulins spread out below the trees where they are gathered by hand and placed in sacks. Apples to be used for calvados would be stored on the floor, piled to a height of about 70 centimetres. Grating and Pressing There are three different periods of ripening early season apples, which ripen in September, mid season apples ripening from October to mid-November and late-season apples, which are harvested in December and generally stored until January. The mid and later season apples are used for the production of Calvados early season apples would have to be mashed early when temperatures are still too high for the production of good cider. The apples used must all be equally ripe when the crusher transforms the apples into a homogeneous pulp. The pulp is left to work for a few hours allowing the apples to soften, making it easier to extract the juice tannins and aromas once the pulp is conveyed to a hydraulic batch press, which extracts the juice by squeezing. Most of the flavour is extracted from the skin and not from the pulp. Compared with cider for drinking cider for distillation is fermented until crisp dry. The fermentation takes place in large oak barrels. The cider ferments for anything from 6 weeks to a year depending on the producer and then can be aged for a further year before distillation. DistillationEarly European distillation was primitive and shrouded in mystery. Apothecaries and monasteries sold alcohol not as a beverage but as a medicine, “aqua vitae” or “eau de vie” a cure for anything or a life-span enhancing elixir. Before 1942 Calvados was still widely called “eau de vie de Calvados” which translates to water of life of calvados. Many wood-fired stills are still used today although gas-fired stills require less attention. From the home made to the high-tech the variety and individual characteristics of different stills contribute to the individuality of what they produce. In general the flavour of calvados distilled in double distillation is more complex compared to that distilled in a continuous still. AOC Calvados Pays d’Auge is distilled twice the first distillation of cider yields an intermediate product with strength of about 30%. This product is distilled again. The liquid produced is not called calvados but “eau de vie de cider” and is colourless with strength in the region of 70%.  It produces a burning sensation on the palate and gives off an aroma of fruit and alcohol although made well and served chilled it will stand up to good vodka. The column still is used for the production of “AOC Calvados” and “AOC Calvados Domfrontais” it easier to control and runs continuously, making it a much safer and cheaper choice. Many stills were mounted on wheels so they could travel the countryside bringing the skills of the distiller to the farm. The distillation of cider takes place in a single operation of continuous production. The cider enters the top of one column, passing downwards from plate to plate. The more volatile compounds evaporate out due to the heat and the vapour given off from the cider rises gradually becoming enriched as it bubbles back up through the cider. These vapours condense in a second column producing a liquid with again strength in the region of 70%. Ageing and maturingThe producers of calvados have agreed to age the spirit for a minimum of two years or three years for Calvados Domfrontais and then test it before the spirit is sold as calvados. Much is aged for a great deal longer and some is aged for between 20 and possibly 60 years. Ageing and maturing are not the same thing age being the time spent in cask while maturity expresses the result. In dark and peaceful cellars under the expert eye of the cellar master calvados is aged slowly in oak casks often firstly in small new casks and then in older larger barrels. As time goes by the most volatile compounds that give the young calvados its burning taste disappear. The calvados extracts various substances from the wood, including tannins that give it colour and body. Its bouquet intensifies and its colour changes from golden to deeper and deeper shades of amber. On contact with oxygen, the wood compounds dissolved in the spirit and undergo chemical transformations producing new aromas. Often former sherry and port casks are used. This helps yield fewer bitter tannins and helps to give finer colour, more body and greater aromatic richness. The Angels share Whilst in the cask the calvados evaporates through pores of the wood and this is known as the Angels share. The angels are quite thirsty and represent an annual loss of between 1 and 3 percent in volume. This can rise to 6 percent in small casks. This however is not all bad as aromas become more complex and concentrated and controlled by temperature and humidity the angels speed up their work intensifying the aromas and improving the quality so the calvados requires less reduction before bottling. Big casks are often half filled to increase evaporation, lucky angels |
